Off the Boat….to Beaune

We moored Decize in Epinal and took a train south to visit friends. Ana and Frank moved to Beaune a few years ago and we see them more now than we did when we all lived in Houston. Bonus: our hiking buddies, Claire and Joe, were visiting at the same time.

Beaune is the epicenter of the Burgundian wine world. We spent the weekend eating, biking and helping Beaune with its wine surplus.

Some of these vines will produce grapes that will produce $1,000 bottles of wine, i.e. wine we can’t afford.

On theme, we had an amazing dinner at La Lune, a French-Japanese fusion restaurant that seats fewer than 20 people. Highly recommended – make reservations months in advance.

Other culinary highlights included a real martini and popcorn ice cream.

We joke that Ana and Frank are land people because they grow fruits and vegetables of all types (and keep bees). But Frank is building a dory sailboat from a kit to keep his handmade kayak company. It is beautiful.

After our lovely visit we met up with our latest expat, but longtime Houston, friends, John and Michele. They were heading south to their new home in Vaison-la-Romaine.

They were still a bit stunned with the whole moving to France thing, but their very good boy, Hansel, was very excited to be welcomed everywhere.

Roberta and Michele indulged in a bit of retail therapy. Matching shoes!

Too soon it was time to head back north to the boat. We consoled ourselves by a visit to the bar car on the TGV.

Canal des Vosges

After enjoying a few days with frequent cruisers Jackie, David and their lovely daughter on the Haute Saone we entered the Canal des Vosges at Corre. We attempted this canal several years ago but had to turn around because of low water.

First stop was Fontenoy-le-Chateau which was the last stop on our previous attempt. It’s a lovely little town with, yes, ruins of a chateau, a bar and not much else.

The canal is beautiful, unusually weed-free and with lovely spots to have a picnic or spend the night.

And locks. Lots and lots of locks. Not that we’re complaining…. they were all working.

We passed through two swing bridges that were built in the 1800s. The technology hasn’t changed: When a boat approaches a canal worker magically appears to push it around.

But locks. Lots and lots of locks. Our last morning we did 14 locks in 3 km. We were so efficient (and lucky), it only took us two hours.

We can always tell when we are nearing a city of any size because local artwork starts to appear.

We’re docking Decize in Epinal, sister city to La Crosse, Wisconsin, for a few days while we visit friends in another town.

Back in France

We started our 2026 cruising season by letting Air France wine and dine us across the Atlantic.

Amuse bouche and first course.
Second course. Not pictured…. third, fourth and fifth courses.

After breakfast (our sixth course) we landed in Paris where we joined the endless immigration queue. Only one hour in the priority line. Then it was time for what was for us a midnight snack …. coffee and pain au chocolate.

We arrived in St-Jean-de-Losne the next day and took a stroll around our town.

First stop, our favorite SJL dive. Jeanne, the proprietress, wasn’t serving food that day but we were only looking for a welcome drink.

And, miracle of miracles, Decize was in the water!

Long story short, jet lag sucks, every year, but we are still happy to be here.

2026 – Back to Burgundy

We are about a week away from returning for another summer of cruising the rivers and canals of France. We have gotten pretty good about preparing for our departure but we always seem forget something.

Status of the Network

We had big plans last year for a loop through Strasbourg, Nancy, Toul, Paris and Dijon. Unfortunately several canals were closed due to low water and we were unable to proceed and had to retreat back up the Rhine.

This year France received a lot of rain in January and February. In fact the Seine and our river (the Saone) flooded in a few spots.

Seine in Paris (January 25, 2026)

While not good for everyone this was good news for the reservoirs that supply water for the canal system.

Reservoir status in northeast France – April 2026. Green: >80%, Yellow >60% full

Unfortunately other issues could present problems this year. The picture below shows the current closures that might affect us. The good news is the Canal du Centre, which was closed almost all last summer, is open again. The Canal du Loing, Canal du Nivernais and Canal du Rhone au Rhine are all currently impassable. And the Canal de Burgogne has restrictions and plans to close early in September.

Red Xs are current closures, star is our home port (H2O Marina).

2026 Plan (Tentative)

We want to start by going north to Nancy via the Canal des Vosges which we attempted in 2024 and were stopped by low water. After returning from Nancy we head to Alaska for Roberta’s 50th high school reunion.

After returning for France, we want to go west via the Canal du Centre. It’s been a couple years since we visited the Loire valley and thought it would be nice to return.

DatesDestinationComment
May 18 – May 24St Jean de Losne Provisioning/Checkout
May 25 – May 31CorreNorth on Saone to C. des Vosges
Jun 1 – Jun 15NancyNorth on Canal des Vosges
Jun 18 – Jun 26Port-sur-SaoneBack south to the Haute Saone
Jun 30 – Jul 4ParisBy train to visit Francis/Emilie
Jul 4 – Jul 10St-Jean-de-LosneBack to our home port
Jul 11 – Jul 30Alaska!To Alaska – Roberta’s 50th HS
Aug 1 – Sep 25Cruising west?To Decize/Briare?
Sep 26 – Oct 7BucharestTraveling through eastern europe
Oct 7 – Oct 17HikingVampire hiking in the Carpathians