Benton MacKaye Trail Plan

Getting to the Trail

The southern terminus of the BMT is about 2 hours north of Atlanta. My plan is to fly into Atlanta on March 27, take the MARTA red line 2o miles or so north to the Sandy Springs Station and then have a shuttle take me (~70 miles, 2 hours) to the Springer Mountain trailhead.

I arrive around 10:30 so am hoping I can get a least a few miles down the trail the first day.

Section 1 (Springer Mountain to Thunder Rock CG, 94 Miles, 6 Days, 23,000 Ft):

The trail starts near Springer Mountain in the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest, about 80 miles north of Atlanta. The start of the trail is within a quarter of a mile of the start of the much more famous Appalachian Trail. In fact, the two trails cross several times and basically take a parallel path north.

BMT Section 1

I hope to get 6-8 trail miles on the day arrive so I can complete the remaining 90 miles in the following 6 days. Five of those will be in Georgia, and the last in Tennessee, finishing at Thunder Rock CG on the Ocoee River around noon on April 2. From there I will either hitch or try to find a shuttle for the ~7 miles of highway to Ducktown for my first zero day.

DayDateMilesClimb (ft)BMT Mile
027-Mar8.07508.0
128-Mar15.04,10023.0
229-Mar14.53,30037.5
330-Mar14.92,30052.4
431-Mar14.24,05066.6
501-Apr16.33,25082.9
602-Apr10.91,60093.8
703-AprZERODucktown

Resupply options are limited in Ducktown (just a Dollar General) but there is a real grocery store about 4 miles south in Mackaysville if I can figure out a way to get there.

Cell coverage in the first section is pretty good. The figure below shows voice (green) and data (purple) for each day. Importantly it shows voice coverage at the end so I may be able to contact a shuttle.

Elevation profiles and cell coverage in Section 1
Section 2 (Thunder Rock CG to Fontana Dam, 95 Miles, 6 Days, 25,500 Ft):

The second section winds northeast along the Tennessee/North Carolina border for 95 miles, ending at Fontana Dam, a TVA dam on the Little Tennessee River. The first day on this section is longer than I would like but it allows me to get to a real campground (with running water!).

BMT Section 2

DayDateMilesClimb (ft)BMT Mile
804-Apr17.53,400111.3
905-Apr15.83,560127.1
1006-Apr15.34,150142.4
1107-Apr15.03,700157.4
1208-Apr16.04,600173.4
1309-Apr16.63,700191.5
1410-AprZEROHike Inn

There is a resort complex (lodge, campground, marina), Fontana Village Resort right on the trail as you approach the lake at the end of this section. However, the day I plan to arrive, Wednesday, April 9, the entire resort is booked for a private event (even the campground?). So this very convenient rest stop is not available. And, on top of that, the cell coverage is terrible here.

So….. my plan is stop at the Tapoco Lodge (about 10 miles from the Fontana Village) and arrange a shuttle pickup from The Hike Inn , a hiker-friendly hostel about 9 miles east of the dam.

Elevation profile and cell coverage in Section 2.
Section 3 (Fontana Dam to the End, 99 Miles, 7 Days, 20,250 Ft):

The last section is entirely in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) where free camping is not available and campsites have to be reserved. I plan on reserving these from The Hike Inn and am hoping that the Giant Orange Turd’s attack on the national park service does not impact my plans.

BMT Section 3

DayDateMilesClimb (ft)BMT Mile
1511-Apr13.22,400207.6
1612-Apr15.12,200222.7
1713-Apr15.73,200238.4
1814-Apr14.74,150253.1
1915-Apr14.53,100267.6
2016-Apr10.04,000277.7
2117-Apr12.01,200289.7
3.0Hostel

Cell coverage (with T-Mobile) is very poor. I will not have cell coverage at any of my campsites and rarely during the day. But there is coverage near the end so will be able to contact Standing Bear Hostel to arrange a pickup if I don’t want to walk 3 road miles to their place.

Elevation profile and cell coverage in Section 3.

I plan on staying a night at the hostel before shuttling in to Knoxville for my return flight to Houston in April 20.

A Turkish Interlude

We interrupted this year’s French floating fun to spend three weeks with friends on an Overseas Adventure Travel excursion in Turkey. We had been (briefly) in Istanbul 10 years ago on our way back from Africa but that was just a taste.

Istanbul and Cappadocia

We arrived in Istanbul on June 1 and spent a few days touring the usual sites (along with a lot of other tourists) before flying to Cappadocia.

We toured the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace and saw lots and lots of cats. They really love cats here.

We managed to get in a couple of early morning runs (it gets hot pretty quickly) and I jumped into the Sea of Marmara after one of them. Not exactly Lord Byron swimming the Hellespont but very refreshing.

After a few days in Istanbul our group hopped a plane to Kayseri in Cappadocia with its famous cave dwellings and underground cities. Our first morning in Urgup we did a sunrise balloon ride.

One evening we went to a demonstration of the Sufi mystic practice of meditative dancing (Whirling Dervishes).

Whirling Dervishes

OAT makes a point on their tours of interacting with the local cultures. We had lunch with a family in a small town near Kayseri and then dinner with a family in Antalya.

On our long bus ride to Antalya we made a brief detour to see the ancient Greek/Roman theater of Aspendos. One of the best preserved ancient theaters in Turkey, and it’s still in use.

The Gulet

From Antalya we travelled to Fetihye where we boarded a traditional Turkish Gulet (the “Halil Aga I”) for four days of coastal cruising.

Our Gulet

She was about 60 feet long with 8 staterooms, each with a private bath. The beds were comfortable but we never slept in them – because of the heat we slept on deck. There was a captain and a crew of three (cook, first mate and a helper).

They never put up the sails which was a little disappointing.

One of our pretty mooring spots.

Ephesus

Our last adventure was a tour of Ephesus and the Ephesus Museum. Ephesus is on the big cruise ship route so there were a lot of people but it was still fascinating.

Library at Ephesus

And always remember to use the correct pose for photographing ancient Turkish ruins..